The railway to Tibet, which has just opened this month, has been a major engineering feat for China. It cost USD 4.2 billion and runs at an average evelation of 4000 m (highest in the world) for 1,140 km. (Pic source: AFP, The Economist)

It offers tourists much a cheaper and scenic way to reach Tibet. The cost of travelling there will have dropped to RMB 389 (USD 48.6) for a basic coach ticket and RMB 1,262 for a first class sleeper from Beijing to Lhasa. For comparison, a one-way trip by air would cost about RMB 2,300 from Beijing to Lhasa via Chengdu. (Unfortunately, there is no express train from Shanghai to Lhasa). I would certainly take this if possible if I go again, despite much of the controversy which surrounds the railway.

Indeed, there has been much backlash against the railway, as critics believe that "most of the benefits will accrue to Lhasa's rapidly expanding population of Han Chinese, who control most of the tourist industry as well as most trade between Tibet and the rest of China," as summarised by The Economist. Other organisations are concerned with the environmental impact to the fragile ecosystem of the Tibetan plateau, which by the way, is the source of water to 47% of the world's population (!) via the world's major rivers such as the Yangte and Indus.

Of course, the amount of impact should not be exagerrated - according to an economics researcher from LSE, "despite the rosy economic forecasts and dire predictions of Chinese control, the train is unlikely to touch off social disaster or commercial windfall ... tourism is likely to stabilize at only slightly higher than the current rates and exploiting the area's natural reserves will remain prohibitively expensive."

And the People's Daily argues passionately:

They, who are enjoying all the conveniences and luxuries of modern civilization, are disqualified to make any remarks to defame China's efforts in developing Tibet. And those who think the snow land should be kept as a medieval museum to satisfy their bizarre personal curiosity should feel ashamed for their selfishness and nearsightedness.

Such tub-thumpers neglected a basic truth of human history: Development is a common choice of the human race, and no one should, or can, slam on a brake on a train to modern civilization.

The argument is unabashedly one-sided; however, they do have a point - everyone deserves to live outside of poverty and in a developed society.

But if the Communist Party were serious about benefiting the Tibetans, they should have encouraged Tibetans to directly participate in trade and tourism as the main way to alleviate poverty instead of restricting these economic privileges and incentives to the Han minority. You'd wonder whether this USD 4.2 billion would be better spent on improving education and job training for the Tibetans, instead of investing it in an enormous "economically absurd" political project. Alas, changes will come sweeping through the Roof of the World, for better and for worse - whether or not the Tibetans like it.


The journey from Golmud to Lhasa will last two days. Picture source

Lots of photos in this Yahoo! News gallery.